Day 11: driving down to Durres from Shkoder

Friday, 28th June, 2019

We are spending 3 days driving through Albania’s coastline. Today, after going into shkoder’s town centre, we attempted to climb up to the Rozafa Fortress but due to the heat, we decided to take in the views from below the fortress.

Shkoder is one of the oldest cities in Europe, and while houses and mansions are still being restored to their former glory, it was pleasant to wander around this town and take in the sights and sounds – church bells ringing and the muezzin calling from the minaret. This old town is wedged between the Accursed Mountains and Lake Skadar and is a gateway to the Albanian Alps or southwards towards the coast, the Albania. Riviera.

I must say that up to now, we have encountered only pleasant Albanians – everyone is helpful and want to have a chat with you; for instance as I was taking pictures of an old dilapidated building, a shopkeeper on the other side of the road come across to talk to us. He did tell us that most buildings that haven’t been renovated are often due to disputes in the family inheritance plus the fact that to restore these buildings it would cost a fortune. The building which housed his shop was beautifully restored. He also suggested we visit the Cathedral and we said we would be walking around to take in the the prominent sites.

Another experience we had was when I saw an ATM and decided to withdraw some local cash – Lek – but first checked what the currency is worth – 100 Lek is 80 euro cents. Anyway at the ATM machine a bank employee stood there helping clients to use the ATM. She was actually given both debit card and PIN code so that she could withdraw the cash for the clients. I can understand when some of the clients were elderly people but there were also younger generation with their teenage daughters using this assistance……. well when it was my turn to withdraw cash, the bank employee politely stepped aside and smiled at me as though to let me know that of course she knew that I was more capable of withdrawing cash!!

Well further with our sightseeing x it’s incredible that within 300 square meters, we found 3 different houses of worship – the Russian Orthodox Cathedral, Catholic Cathedral and the Moslem Mosque.

We also walked down the main pedestrianized street filled with shops, cafe’s and hotels – Rr. Kolë Idromeno – it was interesting to see that bicycles are heavily used in Albania – apparently it was illegal to own a car till the 1960’s …….

Back at our hotel, The Rose Garden, we picked up the car to make our way to the Rozafa Fortress – a most impressive site founded by the Illyrians in antiquity and rebuilt by the Venetians and later by the Ottoman. The name is derived from the woman who was allegedly walked into the ramparts as an offering to the gods so that the construction would stand!

Well as I said earlier, we arrived here at noon and it was too hot to make the climb all the way but I did manage to take some good pictures and we have to do with that!

We then started on our 2 hour drive down to Durres. Sometimes we drove on a two lane road where we had all sorts of traffic, bicycles, donkey carts, busses and speeding BMW’s and Mercedes. For a few kilometers we were on a sort of a four lane motorway but within minutes this luxurious strip of motorway ended and we were back on a two lane road……. anyway we arrived in Durres just after 2pm and we could immediately check in to our hotel just across the beach.

We had access to the beach so we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing on the beach and swimming too till early evening. Back in our room (with sea view), we checked our social media and showered and were ready to take a stroll along the beach front. Actually Durres is also a sea port and we were able to see this when we went out for our stroll before dinner.

Through TripAdvisor, I chose a good restaurant to have dinner as we fancied having fresh fish – my choice fell on Gusto di Mare. While we had a fantastic meal made up of fresh green salad with avocado and shrimps, fresh sea bass baked in the oven with vegetables and very good local white wine from the Berat region, the prices were very Western European. Actually the restaurant manager spoke very good Dutch with a Flemish accent as he used to live in Belgium.

We strolled back to our hotel and welcomed the pleasantly warm sea breeze. All the way, we could hear music and singing in different seaside resorts. I believe half of Tirana is out here in Durres for the weekend. This is the summer resort for the Albanians living inTirana as it’s only some 36 km away. Mind you it’s not the beach front of my choice – it’s more or less like Benidorm; huge apartments built along the coast and some other buildingslook quite worn out and are need of a paint makeover…… tomorrow we are travelling further south to Vorle where we will also be pending the night in a beach side hotel.

Day 10: crossing 4 borders to reach Shkoder

Thursday, 27th June, 2019

This morning my alarm clock went off at 7.am – it is going to be another travel day as although we are not doing that much mileage, it’s going to take us some 4 hours to arrive finally at our destination and stop over night in Shkoder.

We also wanted to first drive up to the ruins of Fort Imperial on Srd Hill. Built by Napoleon in 1806, the fort was to provide defense from the north when the French dismantled the Republic of Dubrovnik and fierce fighting was going on between the French on one side and the Montenegrins and Russians on the other side while Dubrovnik decided to remain neutral. However Dubrovnik fell into the hands of the French, but it did not last long before the town ceded to the Austrians after the fall of Napoleon. The Austrians were scared of the Ottoman Empire which was moving up more north and decided to fortify the French fortifications.

During the Homeland war of 1991, the fortifications proved again to be useful and strong in the defense of Dubrovnik which was surrounded by Serbs and Montenegrins who occupied all the surrounding territories while the Croatian army was only in the Imperial Fort. The Imperial Fort withstood a whole day of attack in December 1991 and hence Dubrovnik did not fall. Those Croatian defenders must have thanked the builders of the fort – although severely damaged it withstood modern artillery fighting……. now the museum of the Homeland War is situated within the fort.

After our walk around , we also took pictures of the old town of Dubrovnik from the top of hill cliff – this was such a wonderful panorama and good to get a bird’s eye view of Dubrovnik and the surrounding areas!

By 12 noon we were on the road again and our TomTom gave us a route to our destination through the mountains and not as we had expected along the coastline….. we were lucky to have a bus driving in front of us as the road was so narrow that no two cars could fit at the same time x in fact the bus made a car reverse quite a few meters before we could continue our journey.

Both Gerry and I are not really mountain lovers and certainly after an hour of driving through mountains we both had had enough but we had to drive another 3 and a half hours….. these mountains are bare rock formation and only on the lower grounds we could see green vegetation.

Within an hour we had reached the border to Bosnia Herzegovina and some time later we pulled up at a gas station to fill up the car and a sandwich – alas no sandwiches at this fuel station but we were told we could get lunch just across the road. So off we went!

We had a pleasant lunch of Cevapcici and salad and a thirst quenching drink of fresh lemonade and then we were ready to continue our drive through the mountains and head towards the border with Montenegro. This is where we saw beautiful lake Bilecko which made the waiting at the border less frustrating…….

We followed TomTom’s instructions all the way through mountainous roads which seemed impossible to drive through but we made it to the Albanian border and then it was a short trip to Shkoder. We were dead tired by the time we arrived to our hotel – Rose Garden Hotel

The border to Albania runs across another huge lake – Skadarssko Jezero and Shkoder lies on the this lake. We will be doing the sightseeing tomorrow as will be going up to the Rozafa Fortress and taking in the views from there. But for today, we just wanted to relax in this little hotel and enjoy the rose garden and dinner.

Day 9: Hanging around Dubrovnik

Wednesday, 26th June, 2019

Today we had a good lie in – I only woke up around 9 am and Gerry much later – so all our plans to go and climb the old city walls early morning fell through. And we were not going to walk up some 1.000 steps in the heat of the day!!

So we decided to have a somewhat relax day, sipping our coffee on our terrace and me doing some more travel planning and keeping up with my blog. Our German neighbors were already off for the day so we were totally on our own on our floor.

Still quite sleepy but enjoying his coffee on our terrace

Later in the day we decided to go down for a swim – it was just down the road and some steps onto the rocky beach – gradually more locals came down too – I imagined us being seals or penguins basking on the rocks and soaking up the sun!! Some of the locals went fishing, putting out cages with loads of bread so as to entice the fish and others went off to catch octopus…….. but for us, we enjoyed the fresh and clear sea water and went in a couple of times for a refreshing dip.

Luckily we had steps leading into the sea – while Gerry did dive, I went down the steps.

After a couple of hours we went up to our apartment to have a siesta. It was too hot to remain on the beach and by then there were more tourists who were spreading their towels on the pathway……..but we had a great time swimming! When we climbed up the steps, we needed a little break to catch our breath – so we had time to admire the craggiest shoreline and take some pictures as well as a selfie – that’s always fun trying to get both of us in the picture…….

After our siesta, we got ready to go into town – this time we caught the bus so we did not get all sticky and sweaty by the time we reached the old town. Our city card which we bought yesterday evening has proven quite useful with catching the bus – it’s much too hot to walk….

Once in town, we did attempt to climb up to the bastion walls, however the official entrance was already closed but we thought we could get up a different way – although we climbed many steps, we could not reach the top of the walls but we did enjoy some magnificent views.

But we did find a “hole in the wall” and were able to get out of the bastions only to see one of the pirate ships sailing out to the sunset……. later as we were having dinner we also saw these pirate ships returning to port!

This pirate ship takes tourists out to sea to watch the sun setting into the ocean…..

When we finally made our way down to the old port, I had worked up quite an appetite. We stopped at the same restaurant we went to last night x it has simple but good food so we could not go wrong here and even the wine and beer were good. Also it’s a good place to watch what is going on in the port and people strolling around. And when it started getting dark, the twinkling lights went on and it all looked so magical…….Very entertaining!

After dinner, we made it on time to catch the bus back to our apartment – we are having an early night as we plan to be back on the road tomorrow and well on time!

Day 8: Driving from Zadar to Dubrovnik with a detour to Mostar

Tuesday, 26 June, 2019

We had a really good night’s rest in our luxurious bedroom in the old town of Zadar. It’s a good thing we had visited this port town a couple of years back as we had no time to go sight seeing due to today’s busy schedule!

Gerry getting our coffee ready to relax before going to bed
Luxury shower in our bathroom

By 9 am we were on the road again after Gerry had his morning coffee and smoke on the little patio leading down the stairs to the pedestrian street below. Luckily our car was parked close by at no extra charges.

For some time we drove over the motorway after leaving Zadar and we were quite alone travelling on this well maintained motorway. However once we exited the motorway to drive to Mostar in Bosnia Herzegovina, the motorway changed to a two lane road winding through the mountainous countryside.

We finally reached the boarded between Croatia and Bosnia Herzegovina and it took us quite a while as passports and car documents were being checked thoroughly – of course we needed something back from the officers – passport to be stamped! The Bosnian customs officer was full of humour and said he would stamp our passports but it would cost us five euros each……… hahaha…….

It took us nearly 2 hours to reach Mostar – a medieval town on the Neretva River and which was heavily shelled and destroyed during the ethnic cleansing wars of the 1990’s. This town was built in the 15 & 16th centuries as an Ottoman frontier city and later developed further by the Austria-Hungarian period in the 19and 20th centuries.

Most of the facades as well as the iconic bridge have been rebuilt through funds donated by UNESCO and now the reconstruction of both the Old Bridge – Stari Most – and the Old City of Mostar are a symbol of reconciliation, international cooperation, and of the coexistence of diverse cultural, ethnic, and religious communities.

I then wonder, why was there a war fought?

As we had not had any breakfast, we had some lunch along the river and shaded by the trees – now we had to have the Cevapcici (beef and lamb mincemeat rolls) with salad. After our lunch we made our way back to the car to continue our drive to Dubrovnik.

Once on the road, we noticed that at most times, we were the only travelers – high and ragged mountains with hardly a living soulmaround – yes we did see lots of cemeteries – Christian oas well as Moslem cemeteries. Anyway we were really glad when we could see the coastline again and not too long, we crossed the border again into Croatia – we now had some 1.5hours drive to Dubrovnic!

We are staying in a one bedroom apartment just outside the city walls of Dubrovnik – our hosts are really lovely people and made us feel at home straight away – we have a side view of the coastline and apparently from the upper floors, one can see the walled city of Dubrovnik – alas for us (and for our hosts) there is a monstrous big hotel built on the side blocking most of the view. Such a shame as these beautiful villas must have had a fantastic uninterrupted view of the coastline!

Once we were settled and Rudi, our host, showed us the sights on the tourist map, we walked to the old town of Dubrovnik. According to Rudi, it should take us some 25 minutes, but i guess he must be a brisk walker as it took us well over a half hour to reach Fort Lovrijenac where we could admire the view!

Luckily the heat of the day was gradually getting lesser as we entered the city walls through Pile Gate and it was as though we were transported into the film set of Game of Thrones – only I had to imagine all those tourists disintegrating into nothing! We were late to climb up the City Walls – we will leave that for tomorrow- but our walk around and getting to know Dubrovnik was such a wonderful experience!

By the time we had walked around and also heard some lovely singing in the Cathedral, we went down to the Old Port which was truly magnificent. Here we decided to stop and have a drink with a snack and just relax for a while.

Finally drinks and bites at the Old Port of Dubrovnik

Well we were ready to go back to our apartment by 10 pm however we did not p,an to walk up the hill as we were dead tired – as we had bought our it’s Card at the tourist office earlier this evening, we also had a bus card so we put it to good use and caught a bus that took us up the hill – from there we walked a small bit to our apartment. When we arrived our next door neighbors from Munich were having a drink on the terrace and we just exchanged our evening’s stories while enjoying a liqueur which Rudi’s wife had left us as a complimentary drink in the apartment.

Tomorrow we will have a bit of a relaxing day as Gerry has been doing all the driving while I have been navigating and getting g things sorted out on the trip.

Time to sleep!

Day 7: Ferry from Mali Losinj to Zadar

Monday, 24th June, 2019

After yesterday’s busy day meeting up with Arlen, going to the beach and enjoying the company of Lara and her family over dinner, we badly needed our sleep and did not wake up till much later than planned. Today is going to be a travel day – easy and slow going – by ferry which we are taking later on in the afternoon and saving us driving back to Cres to cross over to the mainland and drive down to Zadar. I hate retracing my steps – I rather keep moving forward even if it means going round in a circle to get back to a specific point!

Our breakfast consisted of a banana and some chocolate cookies with our coffee – we were given strict instructions by Lara that we should not eat too much as she invited us for lunch when we would be eating some of the fish that her son Alex caught yesterday.

After packing up everything, we met our host, Matheus, downstairs and thanked him for his hospitality – we decided to walk up to the car park with our luggage but it seemed that the steps got steeper and steeper as we climbed up…….

Anyway finally made it to the car park after much grunting and panting and stopping to admire the view – we then drove over to Lara’s place.

At Lara’s place, the house was full with kids as they have holidays – the twins Dado and Carolina were watching cartoons and Alex started preparing the fish to put on the BBQ while his girlfriend, Bruna went off to the greengrocers to get some salad for lunch. Maria was out shopping and joined us just before lunch. Gerry has a special relationship with Lara and her family as he knows Lara since she was a little girl. In fact, before we left Holland, Gerry put various photos he had taken over the years into an album. These pictures were take when Gerry and his family used to travel to the then Yugoslavia and spent time with Lara’s family – Lara really appreciated this photo album- as did her husband, Werner!

Well back to today! Besides having lively conversations, I also managed to make reservations in Dubrovnic – to arrive there on Tuesday evening and where we will be spending 2 nights. And then it was time for Alex to get the BBQ going………

Werner joined us much later for lunch but there was enough fish to go round and it was great being with this really nice family

From left to right: Maria, Alex, Bruna, Carolina, Werner, Lara, Dado and Gerry

Alex did not only attend to the BBQ but also served out the fish and as we could notice, this wasn’t the first time that he’s done this. Gerry kept on saying how Alex reminded him of Jozo, Alex’s grandfather, the same voice and mannerisms……..

Before we knew it, it was time for us to leave and drive down to the ferry. Another surprise awaited us – Arlen, who lives opposite the shipyard, came down to say goodbye – so sweet of her and the. She even called Anna (Lara’s mum) so that she too could wish us happy travels. These people are so friendly and hospitable – just cannot helps loving them!

Our ferry arrived and after some messy way of driving on board, we saw Mali Losinj slowly getting smaller and smaller as we sailed away – literally into the sunset!

We sailed along the coastline and in between various island – this ferry was like taking the local bus with different stops – our first stop was at the island if Primuda and then onto Silby and one final stop at Olibi before arriving at Zadar late in the evening 22.15 pm of course it was just great and easy going trip -;watching the coastline, other boats and different basic ports as well as the sunset and then finally the twinkling lights of Zadar.

Day 6: relax day in Mali Losinj

Sunday, 23rd June 2019

It was good waking up this morning and knowing that we need not pack our stuff to hit the road again. Today we are having a relax day in Mali Losinj visiting with Gerry’s friends from decades ago when he was working in the local shipyard back in the 70’s when this country was part of Tito’s Yugoslavia

But first we are drinking coffee downstairs in our little secret garden and patio while I write my blog. Our hosts (from Belgrade, Slovenia), Veronica and Matheus stopped by and we had a nice long chat. They found our road trip very interesting and also asked about my blog. As I had just finished yesterday’s update, I showed them the page and they were fascinated. Matheus noted the blog page and said he would be following me.

After showering we got ready to walk down the steps to meet up with Arlen, a retired teacher who Gerry knows a long long time through Lara’s family. We met up at Bueno’s -a cafe on the main square, serving all sorts of coffee. Arlen is one of the last citizens of Mali Losinj speaking Italian and we had a very dynamic conversation with regard to the history of this island and it’s people.

Enjoying coffee and company

After a couple of hours, we went up the steps to the church as Gerry had parked the car “somewhere there” …….. what with the warm weather and all the steps we climbed, we were quite out of breath and were glad to find the car after some time! Our next stop was to spend a few hours on the beach before meeting up with Lara and her family – Gerry was hosting a family dinner and the whole family was invited.

Anyway, we spent a few relaxing hours at Cikat beach and swam a few times. It was ever so relaxing.

We met up at Lara’s house round 7 pm and while waiting for her son Alex, to come back from his fishing expedition with his girlfriend Bruna, we enjoyed the view from their veranda with a glass of wine.

Our hosts with Gerry on their verand overlooking the harbour of Mali Losinj

Finally we saw Alex arriving in the harbour in his little motor boat. Apparently he had caught two sea bass which went into the fridge and we will be eating tomorrow’s lunch.

Lara had made a reservation at the Lantern, a restaurant perched on the shore line across the beach if Cikat. Her brother, Christian and his wife Sandra as well as her mother Anna were joining us too so we had a really long table on the terrace where we could watch the sunset.

We had to walk quite a bit to teach the restaurant as it is in a park but the sunset scenery made it worthwhile and I did manage to capture a few good shots as you can see in the above picture gallery.

After the sun set, the sea breeze was quite fresh but luckily the restaurants gave us fleece blankets to wrap ourselves in…….. we had a lovely meal and I am sure Gerry enjoyed reminiscing about old times with the various members of the family.

It was a delightful evening which ended up with Gerry trying to find the same parking area as we had when we left for the day the same afternoon…….. and then to find our way to our apartment down various pathways and steps……. but we did manage to get home …….

Tomorrow, we will be leaving Mali Losinj by ferry to Zadar where we will be staying overnight before driving to Dubrovnic.

Day 5: on the road from Porec to Mali Losinj

Saturday, 22nd June, 2019

Today we started off our day bright and early, even though the skies were filled with rainy clouds. Our little studio apartment just off the beach at Porec was sufficient for an overnight stay but we needed to go out for our coffee and breakfast. Hence by 8.30 am we were on the road to the old town of Porec and hopefully we could have breakfast there.

Porec old town was only a 5 minute drive away and by the time we arrived there, it started to drizzle. That didn’t stop us from walking along the harbour front – this was another morning when we witnessed the waking of a touristic town. Streets were being washed down, shops were opening up and hanging their wares out under awnings and restaurants and coffee houses were getting their outdoor seating ready for their customers.

So we first went for our walk around town – this used to be an old Roman town called Parenzo in Italian and Parentium in Latin. Porec’s street plan was laid down by the Romans in the 2nd century BC, who divided the town into rectangular parcels. The Romans used Porec as an administration centre to control that part of the country. Anyway after the collapse of the Western Roman Empire, Porec came under the Byzantine rule between the 6th and 8th Centuries AD and later fell under Venetian rule in 1267.

Loaded with this knowledge from out of my Lonely Planet book, we enjoyed our walk about in Porec – fascinating to walk through the ancient Roman stone streets polished creamy white over time and then to see the various Venetian towers and Byzantine Basilica………

After our interesting walkabout, we sat at a harbour cafe and had our coffee while watching the various excursion boats filling up with tourists for their daily trips to watch dolphins at play. However, our wish to have breakfast remained as it seemed that none of these harbour cafe’s served breakfast and as it started raining we decided to hit the road again and start our drive down to Mali Losinj.

By 10.15 we were driving under grey skies and a moderate drizzle towards Pula; we had chosen a secondary route through the mountains to get to Brestova where we would catch the ferry across to the island of Cres.

Skies cleared up; far stretched views of rolling hills

On the way, we stopped at a little medieval village which caught our attention as we were driving down a hill – Gracisce . This little village is surrounded by rolling hills and as we stopped outside the village, we could admire the scenery stretching in front of us – there was even an 11 km hiking trail going into the hills but of course that was not our primary goal for today.

When I walked through the archway into the village, I was transported back quite a few centuries – this village must have stood still in time – its collection of ancient buildings include a 15th century Venetian – Gothic palace, a Romanesque Church of St. Euphemia and the Church of St. Mary dating back to 1425. Most of the buildings are badly in need of repair – anyway our search for breakfast was also futile in Gracisce – the local cafe’ served only drinks and coffee …….

Back in the road again and this time our stop – or actually our traffic jam leading down to the ferry boat in Brestova lasted an hour. We joined the long queue of cars waiting for the ferry at 11.45 and an hour later we drove onto the ferry. By 13.15 we rolled off the ferry at Cres and started our drive to Mali Losinj. Luckily at the ferry port, we bought a couple of sandwiches which turned out to be our breakfast and lunch rolled into one.

We finally arrived in Mali Losinj at 14.45 and I called our apartment host who came to meet us at the crossroad – after delivering our luggage, Gerry had to reverse the car uphill to a public parking area while I waited for both men to reappear down some narrow steps. Our home for 2 nights is in a very old part of Mali Losinj – the house itself dates back to 1848 and apparently the town mayor at that time had it built as his private residence. We have a fantastic view from our bedroom window over the bay of Mali Losinj and as the weather had cleared up, we were ready to go down to the town centre, taking in various landmarks so as to be able to find our way back again in the evening!

Our ancient door leading to the garden and patio

It was good walking down to the harbour and boulevard of Mali Losinj – when we sat down to enjoy a coffee, I sent Lara ( family friend to Gerry’s family) a message to let her know we had arrived. We included Mali Losinj purely to meet up with her and her family whom I was also introduced to, two years ago.

In no time Lara surprised us by joining us for coffee together with her little daughter Carolina and her husband, Drago. We chatted for a long time and made a date that we all meet up with the whole family the following evening for dinner.

By the time we had done some grocery shopping, it was time for us to have dinner and Lara suggested we go to Bocca Vera – and yes, Gerry and I had a lovely meal together after which we went off to find our apartment up in the old town……

Tomorrow we will be having a sunny day after today’s wet day and we will be meeting up with other friends from Gerry’s past.

Day 4: driving from Peschiera del Garda to Porec

Friday, 21st June, 2019

After yesterday’s delicious dinner at Al Lago, Gerry just fell asleep as soon as we were in bed while I was writing my blog – well to be fair, he’s been doing all the driving so he must be quite exhausted – mind you, the wine may have had some effect too! Anyway, I woke up to the sounds of Peschiera waking up – little trucks delivering their goods, garbage being collected and little old ladies chatting to each other as they went about their errands.

Before starting off on our drive today, we had a scrumptious breakfast at the Palazzo ai Capitani -the staff from this boutique hotel in the middle of the historic town really know how to look after their guests. We were shown the frescoes along the stairwell that were discovered while renovations were being carried out. These date back to the 1500’s.

When we were ready to leave, we walked to the gate leading to the bridge outside town and Gerry walked up the hill to pick up the car from the parking area while I waited with our overnight luggage at the gate.

By 10.15 we were on the road again and we decided to break up the drive to Porec, our first overnight stop in Croatia, by visiting Venice – only 125 km away.

Outside Peschiera we filled up the car as fuel was running low – the prices here in Italy are much higher than back home – we paid €1,44 per liter! Traffic was quite heavy all the way to Venice and by the time we reached the parking garage just outside Piazzale Roma, it was already gone 12 noon. This parking garage has only a Day tariff – €29,00 !

Our walkabout Venice was to reach Piazza San Marco and unlike Nancy, we arrived here in the middle of the day when the city was teeming with tourists – and temperatures had soared up to 35C.

Following the signs and using google maps, it took us some 45 minutes to reach Piazza San Marco. Mind you on the way, we were able to take some beautiful shots of various buildings and canals, however it was ever so difficult to get a good picture of the Cathedral…….

As we had walked some 5.5km, we decided to take the water-bus back to Piazzale Roma – and this was the best decision ever! There were some 8 stops till we reached our destination so it was a comfortable sightseeing trip on the canal – of course the main attraction was the Rialto Bridge!

Rialto Bridge as seen from the water-bus – marvelous!

Back at Piazzale Roma, we first stopped to have a drink – fresh orange juice and cold water – before picking up the car and starting our second leg of our trip – Porec – a 220 km drive through 2 borders.

Finally we arrived in Porec well after 6 pm – our overnight stay was in a little studio apartment just off the beach. I was somewhat disappointed as I thought I had booked us in the old town but we were just outside along the beach front. Well as soon as we settled in, we went out for dinner and a stroll around this area which is very touristic – loads of German and Italian tourists. We were so ravenous that I forgot to take pictures of our delicious meal – Gerry had to have his nostalgic- Cevapcici – similar to a kebab, while I had grilled squid……..

By the time we got back to our studio we were dead beat – no late nights for us! We will have to get up on time to visit the old town of Porec in the morning.

Tomorrow we will be driving down to Mali Losinj where we will be meeting up with Gerry’s old friends.

Day 3 : Lucerne to Peschiera del Garda

Thursday, 20th June 2019

A cup of morning coffee, a rolled cigarette, an amazing sunny view………… Gerry enjoys the waking of Lucerne from our little balcony

After the heavy thunderstorm we had last night, we woke up to a beautiful clean view from our bedroom balcony – it was great watching Lucerne waking up – down on the quayside, the sunshades were being assembled again and tables and chairs arranged so that the first customers can either have their breakfast or a simple cup of coffee. In no time tourists were crossing the wooden bridge again and taking pictures of the spectacular sights.

Goodbye Hotel des Alpes – and our room with a view

We were in no hurry but we had everything packed and ready to leave after breakfast which we had enjoyed out on the front terrace. However by the time we were ready to go to the parking garage across the lake, it had started to rain. The sun was hidden behind the grey, wet clouds!

By 11 am, we had left the parking garage and although it was still raining, we had a good traffic flow out of Lucerne. Our first long tunnel was the Seelisberg Tunnel – 9.250 meters!

By 12.00 noon we were stuck in a 2 km traffic jam leading to the Gotthard Tunnel, however it took us only 15 minutes to get through it and head into the 17km long Gotthard Tunnel. We were hoping by the time we arrived at the other end, we would have bright sunshine x but we were wrong – still a drizzle coming down!

We stopped for a coffee break at Bellinzona (and a smoke for GerryJ at about 1pm . Here the motorway splits to Lugano and Milano. By now the sun was out again and temperatures quickly soared up 27 degrees. We had coffee on the outside terrace where we enjoyed the warmth of the sun. Once we were on the road again, it only took us half an hour’s drive to reach the Italian border and by that time the outside temperatures had climbed to 35 degrees…….

Oh yes, we had changed our original plan to head to Como for two reasons – we wouldn’t be covering enough mileage for the day as well as most overnight places were overpriced! So we planned to continue driving to Peschiera del Garda, a pretty UNESCO World Heritage site. We found a lovely hotel in the old town – Palazzo ai Capitani and made the reservation yesterday evening.

Peschiera was always a fortified city and the old name used by the Romans in the first century BC was Arilica. Over the years Peschiera remained a fortified city and the Venetian government back in the 16th Century modified the flow of the River Mincio to have three exiting branches into Lake Garda and hence have better city defenses.

Of course today Peschiera is a peaceful historic town welcoming the many tourists who land here each summer. The surrounding countryside is rich with vineyards that produce the local white wine Lugano.

After checking in to our hotel, we parked our car at a central parking area just outside the city walls and then we strolled back into the town. Most of the terraces and restaurants were getting filled up with tourists – some were having a late lunch and others an early supper, however we were not ready for either but certainly Gerry was ready to have what seems to be his daily portion of ice cream!

When we got back to our hotel, it was time to have a shower and get ready for our evening meal. The concierge suggested Restaurant Al Lago which was only a few hundred meters away on the Garda shoreline. Indeed his recommendation was gut – we had a great meal comprising of a grilled turbot accompanied with a Mediterranean sauce made up of cherry tomatoes, olives, capers, onions and accompanied by roast potatoes. We also ordered a side dish of roast vegetables. All this was downed with a fantastic bottle of Lugana white wine!

Back at our hotel, we were dead beat – tomorrow another 3.5 hours drive and this time we have again changed our plans – we will stop for coffee in Venice (only an hour’s drive away) and then onto Porec in Croatia.

Day 2: Nancy to Lucerne

Wednesday, 19th June , 2019

This morning, we woke up to a bright sunny day. We had a good breakfast and by 8.45 we were back on the road again. Our first stop was the old town of Nancy which was only an easy 10 minute drive away.

After parking our car in a public, we walked to Place Stanislas, a majestic UNESCO listed square surrounded by buildings such as the town hall, opera house and the Government house.

Apparently, after the War of Polish Succession in 1737, Nancy, which was the capital of the Upper Lorraine Duchy, was given to Stanislaw, the ruler of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. His bronze statue stands in the middle of this square which had a complete makeover between 2004-5 when it was returned to its former glory instead of being used as a parking area…….

As we had arrived early, we had the whole square to ourselves and could admire its building and take pictures without waiting for other tourists to get out of the way. By the time we had a walk about and sat down to have a coffee at one of the cafe’s on the square, tourists started gathering around.

By 11.30 we were back in the car and driving to Lucerne – a stress free drive as we had no traffic jams and no heavy traffic.

Our route to Lucerne where we arrive just after 15.00 in time to check into our hotel

On the way, and just outside Colmar, we stopped for a break and we we surprised to see a stork being friendly to people- and then I saw that the nest on the pole had two stork chicks – so fascinating!

mummy stork taking a stroll on the parking picnic area

At the French Swiss border, we bought our vignette to drive through Switzerland – we had another 1hr 30 minutes to drive and reach our destination, Hotel des Alpes In Lucerne.

After checking in to the hotel, we went on our walk about – as the hotel is situated in a car free zone, we had to park the car at the train station parking garage across the river so our walk about started from there. What a magnificent and historical town this is. I remember coming to Lucerne for a client meeting when I was still a banker but then there was no time to go sightseeing…….

And of course we had to have a break which we did at our hotel cafe terrace overlooking the river and as we did not have a proper lunch, Gerry had his ice cream while I had an Affogato

Once we were ready to stroll again along the shore line filled with restaurants, pubs (Mr. Pickwick) and cafes, we heard a brass band playing and of course I was drawn to the music so we made our way up the stairs and saw a whole defile of a colorfully dressed band followed by a squadron of Swiss Guards……. we could not exactly make out the reason for this defile’ but it was fun to watch – further down an alley way we also saw soldiers in uniforms dating back to the beginning of the 1900’s waiting to saddle their horses as well as really antique horse drawn machine guns. We did not stay to watch this parade but it was all very interesting.

We then went for a stroll along the lakeside where lots of young people gathered around on the grass to relax – such a great atmosphere…….. our walk back to our hotel was just beautiful with all the various colours in the sky – yes we were in for a great thunderstorm and just as we arrived, we were greeted with huge thick rain drops and a heavy rumble of thunder. We were able to relax in our room and enjoy the view from our little balcony.

After the thunderstorm, we decided to have dinner at the hotel restaurant. We had walked some 12km today so we just wanted to relax.

Tomorrow we will be driving down to Lake Garda – Peschiera del Garda, also an old historic town on the shores of the lake – a 3.5 hr drive……