Author: Liliana

Sunday, 25^th February 2018

Well what do you think? It had rained at night but by 6 am, we had a lovely morning sky and it seemed that the day was going to be a sunshine day! And we had cancelled our trip to Lady Musgrove Island – oh well we had an early start as our drive to Rockhampton was just over 300km and from there we planned to go to the coast to a small seaside town called Yeppoon. 

We were on the road by 10.00 and the weather remained good – luckily our van’s airco functions properly – outside we had temperatures soaring from 28 degrees Celsius to 32 degrees Celsius. Our lovely Serena from the TomTom GPS, directed us through the A1 highway which was a quiet road with very little traffic and winding through beautiful green hills. We still could see the damage incurred with the heavy rainfall – most creeks were still swollen and the current was strong.

Also what was interesting on the way were all the slogans on the big notice boards along the roads such as “Driver Reviver” and then followed by signs to a restaurant or coffee place at a petrol station. Another sign we’ve seen: Break the drive, stay alive:, Also on a long stretch there was “let’s play Trivia” then on the next board there was a question “What is the Floral Emblem of Queensland” Of course we did not know the answer so waited till the next board came up with the answer “ Cooktown Orchid” Now have to wait till we have WIFI again to look up this flower!

On the way, we stopped for coffee and milkshake at our usual “internet café” – McCaffee at Calliope River. But while the milkshake and cappuccino were as usual very good, we were really disappointed that we could not get onto McDonald’s WIFI – even after it was reset! So we continued further till we came to Rockhampton where we stopped for a while to a stroll around town.

Rockhampton is a cattle city just 40km away from the coastline. It is also called Australia’s Beef Capital and since mid 19^th Century has acquired some standing through gold and copper mining and of course cattle trading. However this city never quite made it to being the regional capital city even though some buildings like the Customs House just off the Fitzroy River and the General Post office were built to reflect great standing! But none the less, Rockhampton sits on the Tropic of Capricorn and this is marked by a spire at the visitors’ centre .

Once we had our sightseeing done, we carried on our drive to Yeppoon – the little seaside town on the Capricorn Coast. We have given up trying to get to any island for snorkeling as it can rain any moment so we’ve now decided to make our way to Cairns and plan to “do” the Great Barrier Reef from there! 

We found the campsite, which is situated, just off the beach and our pitch is a really good one – it has the entrance to the beach and we have a beautiful scene in front of us – The Great Keppel Island – we have walked on the beach and tomorrow we’ll explore further and see where the harbour is.

We couldn’t sit outside too long as I was being eaten up by tiny mosquitos so after our evening meal made up of left over pasta, fish and chips and salad, we washed up and have our coffee/tea indoors. So great that we have the airco on in our van – it’s nice and cool.

Tomorrow after some exploration in the neighborhood, we will be driving up to Mackay where we will spend two nights – this is an Art Deco town as back in 1915, it was blown off the surface of the earth by a huge cyclone and was then rebuilt ……….. and I just love Art Deco so I would like to spend some time there…….

Saturday, 24^th February 2018

When we woke up, it seemed that we were going to have a good day but by the time I returned from the showers, I had another shower – outside it was a torrential rain and it did not stop for 3 hours!! This was supposed to be our beach day and we were also planning a day trip tomorrow to Lady Musgrove Island for some snorkeling and an underwater observatory. We quickly changed our minds about that and did not make the firm booking we were supposed to make this morning.

We just spent 3 hours indoors in our camper van and thinking of different routes to go further north. The radio was saying that it was raining badly all along the coast so we needed to get up north as quickly as possible.

Round about 10 the sun broke through the clouds and those grey clouds melted away and blue sky appeared. We watched how an instructor gave theory lessons to a whole group of kids and soon after they all trooped down to the beach to put their theory lesson into practice. Well we were ready to go down to the beach too and first has a fresh fruit juice at our holiday café and check our social media as this was the only place on the campsite where there was free WIFI. It was so calm and peaceful sitting under the shady pine trees and enjoying our drinks. When we left, we had to cross a strong stream of murky brown rainwater that was making its way into the ocean. It looked quite deep but it wasn’t – just not clear!

We set up our gear on a bench under a tree and that was quite shady as once the sun was out, you would never have thought that it had rained so much – it was a real a real scorcher. The waves and surf were quite high so the kids were having quite some fun and we enjoyed watching too. 

Gerry decided to get into the water and after some time I joined him too but the waves were quite high to my liking and I went under a couple of times……….

By 13.30 we were back at our camper van for lunch and I had a siesta as I had been up ever so early due to the rain. By 16.00 we were down on the beach again and this time we took a long walk along the beach – the weather had improved tremendously which meant we could have a nice glass of wine and snacks at our pitch when we returned from our walk. Luckily we could sit in the shady side of the can and soon afterwards I started preparing dinner – penne with vegetables and canned corned beef in tomato sauce and mozzarella – it was ever so tasty.

After dinner, we both went to do the washing up at the camp kitchen and by the time we returned, it was nearly time for bed – we enjoyed a cup of tea outside and then moved indoors. The clouds were gathering again so we had taken the right decision not to go on the excursion to the reef island tomorrow.

We decided instead to break up camp and drive further north – some 300km to Rockhampton, which would be half way to Mackay.

TODAY IS MONDAY 26TH FEBRUARY AND IT’S THE FIRST TIME WE ARE ABLE TO GET WIFI SINCE LAST THURSDAY! AND HERE’S ME OIN MY MCCAFE OFFICE…….. GOOD JOB I KEPT MY JOURNAL LIVE IN A WORD DOCUMENT….. MORE PHOTOS TO BE ADDED LATER ON!

Friday, 23^rd February 2018

Just listening to the radio in the morning – roads are flooded and the radio advise is “If it is flooded, forget it” We’ve had more than 150cm rainfall overnight.

Several car drivers had to be rescued when they got stuck on the flooded roads. According to the weather forecasts, we will be having heavy showers all through the weekend!

So breakfast taken while sitting at our seats in the cabin. Decided to wear my bikini to go to the showers this morning, as I would be getting wet making the short walk to the showers and back! We left the campsite during a heavy shower – I was keeping my fingers crossed that it would be over quickly as we wanted to take a look at Hervey Bay itself, or as it is also know in the Aboriginal language, Urangan – and hey – all of a sudden blue patches in the sky appeared and a few moments later it was dry and we could enjoy our drive along the Esplanade. Beautiful old pine trees lined the esplanade and this turned into a park just before you could descend onto the beach.

Onto one side of Hervey Bay, we could see Fraser Island, the largest sand island in the world measuring 120km by 15km! This is the only place where the rain forest grows on sand. Well as the weather was not yet settled we dared not take any boat trip to the island so we decided, after taking a walk on the pier, to start driving northwards via Agnes Waters and the Town of 1770.

Something worth mentioning about the pier – it was originally built in 1917 to transport timber, coal and sugar and was actually 1.124meters long with a railroad built on the pier to have easier transport. However when petroleum became more important, the pier’s activities came to a halt in 1961.

Our drive to Agnes Waters was planned through the rain forest and on the secondary highways – the Bruce Highway and Isis Highway but at one point, Serena, our GPS guide directed us to a gravel road and after yesterday’s experience we certainly did not want to drive any gravel roads so we turned back to the main road. We re-programmed Serena and from then on she was never to direct us on unsurfaced roads!

On the way, we had a Mcdonalds’ stop at Bunderburg known for its rum production and this is where the regional radio station was sending out its broadcasts and we thought at first it was Van Den Berg………..

I certainly am ever so happy with McDonald’s WIFI – fast and efficient and a good cappuccino to go with it!. This time I set up office at Macca’s (as the Aussies call McDonalds) – I took my MacBook with me and was able to upload yesterday’s blog and download pictures too! Most campsites have really lousy WIFI connections – just as I am writing this blog on Friday evening in the camper van without any WIFI in Agnes Waters.

Well after our break, we continued our drive and what was really great is that we were seeing more and more blue skies between the somewhat heavy showers. We saw floods everywhere and even rushing waters. No wonder this part of Queensland is so luscious green – also we noted that most houses in the countryside were built on stilts – and now we know why! They would get feet when it rains heavily!

By the time we arrived in Agnes Waters, the weather had changed and the sun was out burning hot – most rooftops were steaming away……… We drove further along the coast, which is actually called the Capricorn Coast, as this is where the tropic of Capricorn crosses Australia, and exactly in the town of Rockhampton.

We drove to the Town of 1770 – so called, as this is the place where Captain Cook first set foot in Queensland back on 24^th May 1770. We visited the monument and of course took some pictures and imagined how life would have been back then – whether Captain Cook was actually greeted by the local people or whether Abel Tasman got really annoyed with himself as he did not continue his discovery of Australia but rather went on to look for spices in the name of the VOC!

By this time it was nearing 17.00 and we had to think of spending a couple of nights here so we made our way back to Agnes Waters – we pitched up camp at the beach campsite and then went for a walk around to get acquainted with the neighbourhood. After getting information for a boat trip to a reef island, Lady Musgrove, we strolled to a restaurant in the neighbourhood for a quick meal – steak for Gerry and fish for me.

Our walk back to camp was in utter darkness and by the time we were at our campervan, the sky was reasonable clear that we could see the stars. Hopefully tomorrow will be a good day to spend on the beach – I am badly in need of a relaxing day!!!

Monday, 19th February 2018

Indeed, Gerry was right, I had a good night’s sleep and never heard any traffic – either because there wasn’t any or I fell into a really deep sleep! Today was going to be another leisure day spent around Burleigh Head . The other day, we had seen some walks around the National Park which has been left intact since Burleigh Heads started being developed in the early 1950’s.  Also the trail we were to follow would lead us to a look out post over the Pacific Ocean!

So after breakfast and shower ( for a Municipality campsite, there are really good amenities), we got ourselves ready for our hike. This time I did put on my trainers  and we started off early to avoid the scorching sun (hats on of course!)

As we approached the headland, we saw loads of people sitting on the grass slope facing the ocean – it appeared there were a number of surfers riding the huge waves and being assisted by two jet ski drivers who would take them out to catch a wave. There were many enthusiasts watching and some were armed with telescopic lenses on their cameras! We didn’t know but it seemed that there was a competition going on. 

Our trail took us first along the ocean side of the headland so we could glimpse at the surfers and then went on towards the creek which in contrast to the raging ocean, was very tranquil. People were swimming here! We had to make a U-turn at the end of the creek as we had to take another trail which gradually climbed up the hillside. Wow, it was a tough one – was glad we had cold water with us.

These coastlines of Australia, although developed by the the European settlers over the past 250 years, were the homes of the indigenous people of Australia for thousands of years before the Europeans arrived and they had stories of the rich history of the area, handed down orally through generations of indigenous Australians.

In the Aboriginal  dreamtime legend, Jabreen is a giant creator spirit who had been hunting and feasting on kuppai (honey) in the bushland of ‘Little Tallebudgera’. Tired from the day, Jabreen emerged from the bush and headed toward the ocean for a swim.

Leaving his fighting club (known as a Jabree or Tabra) on the shore, Jabreen swam out toward the horizon.  When he returned to collect the Jabree, the ground where it had been placed rose up, creating the rocky outcrop that marks Little Burleigh. The rock formation of Burleigh Headland marks the spot where Jabreen later lay down to rest. All the basalt boulders which look like huge stumps are supposed to be the remains of Jabreen when he raised his hands to heaven and he fell apart.

I was really fascinated with the great boulders as well as with the huge trees which have been in this area for hundreds of years. From the look out point we had fantastic views of the ocean – unfortunately we’re here at the wrong time of the year to watch the hump back whales migration paths. 

However, to the left side of us, we could see a huge city with lots of high rises emerging out of the ocean. This was Surfers Paradise – nowadays the surfers have moved elsewhere and the Paradise – well that’s gone too unless you think a partying and shopping malls area is paradise – well not to me. Gerry was there some 30 years ago with his daughter, Monique, and he is also flabbergasted at how Surfers Paradise has changed. At that time there were no high rises and was a little seaside resort on the Gold Coast! Anyway, we’ll go through it tomorrow when we are en route.

Back to our Hike, we finally made it back to the entrance and there were still loads of people watching the surfers! We made our way to the boulevard and finally found a place where they had fresh fruit juice ( difficult to get it seems here in Australia!!) and ice cream! Gerry’s prize for hiking a 7km trail which was mostly uphill was a big tub of vanilla ice cream and I had a fresh juice made up of oranges, apples and watermelon – so refreshing!!

Back at our campsite for a shower and lunch. After that was quite tired and needed my siesta. So at first tried to have a nap in the van but it was too hot so she decided to go down to the beach and choose a spot in the shade. Unfortunately the beach was closed for swimming as it was dangerous waters – such high waves and the beach patrols kept going out to swimmers to bring them back (mostly were Asian!)

It was so cool and refreshing on the beach and both Gerry and I did manage to fall asleep for a while. We then just went down to the shoreline to dapple our toes in the ocean – both of us were sure not to get into the sea!

On our way back we stopped at our watering and WIFI hole – the Burleigh Heights Hotel  – Gerry had his beer and I had my sauvignon blanc and checked our social media. I was in touch with home in Malta as today is the day that my family will be holding the funeral service for my brother Hubert.

We made restaurant reservation at the Fish House for the evening and then back at the campsite to relax before heading for dinner. We had a delicious meal – started off with oysters to share and then Gerry had fresh  grilled swordfish and I had grilled Trevally – a local fish caught off the Gold Coast – of course with a good glass of sauvignon blanc. And this time I spoilt myself by having a desert – rhubarb and pear crumble with a lump of creme fraiche!!

Back at the campsite, it was soon time for bed – tomorrow we’re leaving and meeting up with Angela and David.

Sunday 18th February, 2018

By 9.30 am we were on our way again – this time it was a short drive – some 126 km which we would have done in under 2 hours. We were surprised how luscious green this coast road is – there are numerous rivers flowing out into the Pacific Ocean and the rain forests head down right to the beaches where a constant surf is churning.

While Gerry was driving I tried to read up on the area we were driving to – Byron Bay, a mishmash of leftover hippies, virile surfers, tourists catching the Byron vibes and loads of traffic jams which we did experience. We finally arrived at Byron Bay and yes we literally crawled to the beachfront in our camper van . The town centre was filled with shops, restaurants, pubs, and loads of young people in travel mode! There was enough to see but it was ever so hectic. At the beach front, all the car parks were full so we only stopped to take a couple of pictures of the coast – and then with mutual consent, we headed back to the highway! This was not exactly what we were looking for!

So our next stop was some 80km further north – Burleigh Heads.We were now in Queensland and had left New South Wales after leaving Byron Bay! And we were on the Gold Coast. We found the town camp site situated close to the beach – and we were lucky as there was enough place so we booked for a 2 night stay. Once set up, we went for a walk around town and the beach boulevard – it’s Sunday and the beachfront was packed with families and tourists but there were good vibes in this place and certainly we got a glimpse of the Aussie way of life! Picnics under the tress and on the grass lining the beach front and watching surfers trying out their skills on the huge waves. After our stroll we ended up at the Burleigh Heights Hotel terrace (in the smokers’ section) to have a drink. Certainly Gerry needed his beer after driving so long and putting up with me and my emotions! And we were lucky! We had free WIFI! 

Back at our campsite, I prepared a Greek salad and we sat outside enjoying the evening. This time we had a strange visitor strutting around us – some sort of a turkey! He was keen to see if we had leftovers for him and sometimes was quite daring…….

I was wondering whether I would be able to sleep tonight being that we were in the middle of the town and traffic  – but Gerry assured me that I wouldn’t have any problems as the Aussies were all in bed by midnight or earlier……  Tomorrow we will be going for a hike round the Burleigh Headland’s National Park.

Saturday, 17th February 2018

After quite a sleepless night for me, I was up quite early and continue writing in my journal till Gerry woke up. Today we were breaking up camp at the Trial Bay Campsite and making our way up northwards to Yamba. Some people we had met told us that Yamba is a pretty fishing village at the mouth of the Clarence River.

Our drive was some 240km however it took somewhat longer as we kept trying to get off the M1 – Pacific Highway to find alternative routes. Well all alternative routes seemed to get back to the M1 so finally we gave up trying and drove further to Yamba. The country side changed to luscious green fields of cane sugar waving gracefully in the wind. The M1 was no longer a 4 lane highway as there was a lot of construction going on which did not hinder our progress.

At the local Macdonalds, we were able to get WIFI while we enjoyed the Maccaffe – also a new experience for Gerry – but then you have to make concessions if you do want to keep in touch with the outside world and family. A helpful staff member gave us all the ins and outs of the fishing village but recommended that we go to Iluka as that would be more authentic. She even gave us her phone number should we need any assistance – I really do hope we did not give her the impression that we are some helpless senior citizens………….

Anyway with a few campsite addresses keyed into the GPS we first went to get some groceries from the local Coles supermarket and then we were on our way. We didn’t get far when we noticed a camp site just a couple of kilometres down the road. We made a quick decision and decided to stop over here and see what the campsite had to offer us for a one night stay. Well it was pretty and well kept and we had a pitch close to the beach – or actually the mouth of the River Clarence  – so we stayed. I was rather tired through all the emotions I was going through – it’s ever so difficult not to be with the family at a time when you lose a sibling – so many thoughts running through my head are just draining me.

Well we pitched up for the night and went for a walk along the sea shore – young kids were fishing off the jetty  and to the right we could see the fishing trawlers berthed for the night. As we had a late lunch we were not that hungry that evening and just had some snacks and were early to bed.

It’s been a day where I hardly took any pictures – hopefully tomorrow a better day – my daughter Nicole, will be travelling back to Malta to represent the Dutch family at my brother’s funeral which will take place on Monday. We will be travelling to Bryon Bay.